Madeira Appliqué Band


1. Fold blue linen block in half with right sides together and short ends meeting; this crease marks center front. Unfold fabric.

2. Place fabric wrong side up over template with crease of linen along center line of template; bottom fabric edge should rest along horizontal placement line for correct dress size. Trace Madeira template (not embroidery design) onto wrong side of one half of block (fig. 1).

3. Thread machine with wash-away thread in needle or bobbin.

4. Refold linen along crease with right sides together; make sure bottom edges of fabric are matched, and pin well along bottom edge and along traced template line. Stitch along traced line with straight stitch (L2.0). Refer to figure 2.

5. Trim to leave a little more than 1⁄8″ seam allowance above stitching line; trimming should be neat and even, since seam allowance may show slightly through fabric (fig. 2).

6. Press tip of point under and then turn under and press each side of point. Do not clip seam allowances unless necessary; the narrow seam allowance should fit into curves as needed.

7. Turn block right side out. Turn points first and use tweezers or a point turner to hold seam allowance in place while turning; this makes a sharp, neat point. Finger press along curves to roll seam into place along fold; refer to figure 3.

8. Press well with dry iron to make a sharp crease; be sure that stitching line is along fold.

9. Spritz the creased edge with spray starch until damp, but do not let stitched seam “bloom” open. Use a press cloth and press until creased edge is completely dry; do not move fabric until it is completely dry.

10. When fabric is dry, gently pull edges apart; starch should have dissolved wash-away thread so layers will separate. If layers do not easily separate, repeat Step 9.

11. When layers are separated, upper seam allowance will be pressed to wrong side of appliqué band block (fig. 3).

12. Press block to remove center crease and then mark center on wrong side at top and bottom edges.

13. Remove wash-away thread from machine!

Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3