Gail Doane Lilyana Dress

Is it counterchange smocking or surface honeycomb smocking? Why, it’s a combination of both with beads added to the mix! Gail Doane has cleverly combined these two age-old smocking stitches to create The Lilyana Dress. The evenly spaced tone-on-tone vertical stripes of the Swiss dimity voile provide the perfect pallet for this counterchange variation. To offer more fullness for the skirt and sleeves, four stripes are taken up in each stitch repeat and, unlike traditional counterchange, a light stripe is drawn to meet a dark stripe. Resembling honeycomb smocking, the pleats are stitched through twice. Beads are added in the second pass of the horizontal stitches. The Lilyana Dress is featured in our Spring 2022 issue of Classic Sewing, and is pictured in three beautiful colorways.

Gail Doane Lilyana Dress

White Fabric and Purple Trim

Gail created the original white dress with purple trim as part of a multi-garment collection for a family wedding. If love could be illustrated in sewn stitches, this collection of handmade dresses Gail designed would be it. Every young lady wore a beautiful dress created especially for her by the “favorite aunt” of the family. Be sure to check out Amelia Johanson’s article in our Spring 2022 issue for details on each beautiful garment.

Gail Doane Lilyana Dress

Peach Fabric and White Trim

Created in pale peach fabric with white trim, this variation is perfect for Easter and springtime. The delicate glimmer of tiny seed pearls catching the light makes the smocking on The Lilyana Dress so elegant.

White Fabric and Red Trim

Made in white fabric with red trim, this version is playful and vibrant! While the white tone-on-tone smocking is the foundation, the red becomes a vivid accent color for beads, buttons, and ribbon. The striped fabric cut on the bias for the yoke creates a pretty change to the vertical stripes.

Select your little girl’s favorite color for the ribbons and beads. She will love wearing her own special version is this beautiful dress!

This project is featured in our Spring 2022 issue of Classic Sewing magazine. The dress and slip patterns (sizes 2–6), along with instructions, are available as downloads with the issue.

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