Sally’s Embroidered Collar Shirt is classic and casual, with just a touch of fancy! To create this darling shirt, designer Jeanna Hanna adapted her Sally & Samuel pattern from Blue Ribbon Heirloom Designs. She added a small box pleat to the center front and changed the neckline to accommodate a machine-embroidered, scalloped-edge collar ruffle that is finished with a bias binding. In our Autumn 2022 issue of Classic Sewing, Jeanna shares this project and credits her PFAFF® creative icon™ 2 sewing and embroidery machine for helping her construct her beautiful heirlooms.
“I have been a PFAFF® owner since 1990. My PFAFF®s have always treated my fine laces and fabrics gently but with precision. In my opinion, PFAFF® machines have always had the best hemstitches on the market…an essential for any heirloom sewist! My creative icon™ 2 sewing and embroidery machine offers top-of-the-line capabilities for every sewing need. The large embroidery hoop and touch screen technology allows for so many creative opportunities. The wireless device integration is a godsend…no more plugs and wires to navigate across my countertop! Voice control and advanced editing software are just a few of my favorite features of the creative icon™ 2 sewing and embroidery machine! I’m a PFAFF® girl for life!” — Jeanna Hanna
Enjoy Jeanna’s expert tutorial for adding a small box pleat to a top or dress pattern, and be sure to check out our Autumn 2022 issue of Classic Sewing magazine for her complete guide to making Sally’s Embroidered Collar Shirt and more!
Adding a Box Pleat
1. Place the front pattern piece on the fold of the fabric as directed in the pattern instructions.
2. Move the center front line of the pattern 1″ from the fold of the fabric (fig. 1). This will be the pleat allowance and the fold is the new center front.
3. Cut out the front, leaving about 1″ above the neckline and cutting across the 1″ gap at the lower edge. Hand crease the center front fold line.
4. Open out the front. Using a ruler, draw a line along the creased fold and another 1″ away on either side. Using the pattern piece, mark the neckline on both sides of the center front line, continuing the line across the 1″ gap (fig. 2).
5. Fold the front in half, wrong sides together, matching raw edges and the 1″ marked lines.
6. Draw a dot 3″ down from the marked neckline on the 1″ line. Straight stitch from the neckline to the dot, backstitching at the beginning and end (fig. 3).
7. Open the front. With the right side facing you, align the fold with the stitching line to create a box pleat (fig. 4a). Make sure that there are equal amounts of folded fabric on each side of the center front. Press in place. Trim off the extra fabric at the neckline (fig. 4b).
Jeanna Hanna is the designer, creative director, and business woman behind Blue Ribbon Heirloom Designs along with her husband, Mark. She offers online classes and vintage-inspired patterns. Visit blueribbonheirloomdesigns.com and thesewingcollection.com for classes and kits. You can also find Blue Ribbon Heirloom Designs on Facebook and Instagram.
About the PFAFF® creative icon™ 2 sewing and embroidery machine
Experience World-First Innovations
Project the image of an embroidery on your hooped fabric for easy placement. Use the precise positioning feature to fine-tune the perfect placement. Easily match multiple hoopings to create embroideries at the ideal size.
Add the perfect embellishment from the included 873 embroidery designs, and stitch them out with one of the four embroidery hoops included with the machine, including the creative™ GRAND DREAM HOOP which accommodates larger embroideries in one hooping (360 x 350 mm).
The ActivStitch™ TECHNOLOGY sensors measure the fabric thickness and various stitch settings to regulate the amount of thread needed to achieve perfect balance between the needle and bobbin threads. Results are perfect on both sides of the fabric.