PINSTITCH

This beautiful stitch pinstitch, also known as Parisian hemstitch, is shaped like the letter L and requires 6-8 stitches for each hole, which appears at the base of the L. The stitch width will vary with the width of the lace heading and the tension may need adjustment, depending on the weight and crispness of the starched fabric.

Photo 6

A large needle or wing needle and lightweight thread, both needle and bobbin, are also required. For this project, I used a size #120 wing needle and lightweight thread, needle and bobbin. My stitch was #304 on THE Dream Machine XV8500D, Quattro 6000D and Duetta 4500D.

My settings were W=2.0, L=3.0, and tension 3.6. For other models, check your instruction manual for stitch description and number. The pinstitch looks like this in the machine menu.

 

Photo 7

Stitch Placement: The vertical straight stitch should fall on the fabric right next to the lace, and the horizontal stitch should catch the heading of the lace. If you find the stitch is pointed in the wrong direction, simply touch the side-to-side mirror image icon (second icon from the top on far right of the screen), and the stitch will flip to the opposite side.

One of the many things I love about Brother’s THE Dream Machine 2 Innov-ís XV8550D is that as a stitch is altered in length and width or mirror imaged, you can see the change right on the screen.

NOTE: Doing a “stitch rehearsal” on a mock-up with a scrap of fabric (starched and pressed) and lace will be time well spent. The goal is to enclose the heading of the lace in the single horizontal stitch.

Don’t be tricked into using a stitch that has two horizontal stitches. Those are usually for appliqué and will not give the same look as a genuine pinstitch.

1. If fabric is not “crisp,” apply spray starch and press until dry.

2. Pin lightweight tear-away stabilizer to the underside of the area to be pinstitched. Pin from the right side, catching the stabilizer on the wrong side.

3. Flip skirt to right side and begin pinstitching on lower edge of lace. Pivot frequently and only when the needle returns to the fabric after its horizontal stitch into the lace. Again, use of the knee lift makes all that pivoting so much easier.

4. Repeat the pinstitch for the upper edge of the lace (fig. 7).

fig. 7

NOTE: The stitch might need to be mirror imaged.

5. Remove stabilizer after pinstitch is complete. Remove optional basting threads holding fabric tabs away from lace. Trim tabs away very close to stitching. Voilà! Lace shaping is complete!

Photo 8

LOWER LACE BAND

Straight Lace

1. Beginning at center back, place the lower edge of the lace insertion even with raw hem edge. Put stabilizer under the fabric behind lace. Secure the
top heading of the lace with a straight stitch or tiny zigzag.

2. From the wrong side, lightly starch and press the fabric away from lace.

Optional: Baste fabric in place. Place tear-away stabilizer behind the lace.

3. From the right side, pinstitch along the upper heading.

4. Remove the stabilizer and trim fabric close to pinstitching. Press well.

Photo 9
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