Lesson 3—Shirt Construction & Cutting the Nightgown

CHRISTMAS MORNING SERGE-ALONG LESSON 3

Welcome back to the Christmas Morning Serge-Along, featuring the BERNINA L 850! Be sure to enter our giveaway for a chance to win The Big Book of Serging and a Gold-Plated Presser Foot #1 from BERNINA. During this five-week serge-along, we’ll be making adorable Christmas Morning Pajamas in sizes 3–8. The lessons will present the free downloadable patterns and instructions in easy-to-digest sections. New lessons will be released each Tuesday. You can also order (optional) special-priced kits with premium fabrics and trims in two size options, and two different colorways, for boys or girls.

Previous lessons are available here: Lesson 1 and Lesson 2

Downloadable PDFs for Lesson 3:

We hope you have enjoyed the BERNINA Serge-Along so far and have a cute pair of pajama pants to show for it! Let’s add a few techniques before starting the shirt construction.

TECHNIQUE: FINISHING THE END OF PIPING

There are several methods to end a piece of piping. Once again, read through the methods, maybe practice each method on a scrap and choose the one you like the best. Using glue to align the piping seam allowance to the garment edge is the best tip we can give you!

Method 1: Bending Piping into the Seam

This method is the most common.

Place the piping to the right side of the garment, piping seam allowance edge to the fabric edge. At the place where the piping needs to end (with the shirt, it will be shirt front at the neck edge), bend the piping to curve into the seam allowance. Glue in place (photo 1). When the piping is sewn between the facing and the shirt, the end of the piping will be enclosed in the seam (photo 2).

Method 2: Bending Non-Corded Piping into the Seam

Use method 1 but add a step to remove the piping cord from the piping in the bend area. For this method, pull out and cut away about 1/2” of piping cord from one end of the piping. Bend the non-corded end of the piping fabric into the seam allowance. Glue in place (photo 1). Continue gluing the piping to the seam. When the piping is sewn between the facing and the shirt the end of the piping without the cord will be enclosed in the seam (photo 2).

Method 3: Folded-End Piping

This is our favorite method and the neatest. Before the piping is made, fold one short end of the bias strip to the wrong side 1/4” and finger press. Unfold and place glue on the wrong side along each side of the crease. Place the end of the cord against the crease and in the center of the strip (photo 1). Fold the fabric end on top of the cord (photo 2). Place glue along the folded fabric (see photo 2). Fold the fabric strip in half longwise with the cord in the center and glue the edges together for about an inch (photo 3). Serge to create piping with a finished end (photo 4). When attached between two layers of fabric, the end of the piping will be nice and neat (photo 5).

TECHNIQUE: ATTACHING PIPING TO A CURVE

Set the serger for a 4-thread overlock or a 3-thread wide overlock. Attach the piping foot. Our BERNINA L 850 has a clear piping foot. Glue is the key to attaching piping to a curve. The collar on the shirt has curved piping so you will get a chance to try this technique. After the piping is made, glue the piping seam allowance to the right side of the fabric along the curved edge. If the piping seam allowance curls, clip the curve up to, but not through, the left needle thread (photo 1). Let the glue dry. Using a longer stitch length (3.5), start serging the piping in place keeping the piping cord in the groove of the foot. As the curve approaches (photo 2), *lower the needles, raise the foot and pivot slightly (photo 3). The piping cord along the front part of the foot cannot remain in the groove because it is a curve, but at the needles the piping cord should be in the groove. Serge slowly around the curves, lowering the needles, raising the foot and readjusting the piping under the foot before serging. Repeat from the*until curve is serged (photos 4, 5 & 6). Remember to keep the piping cord in the groove of the foot adjacent to the needles around the curve to achieve beautifully stitched piping (photo 7). The BERNINA L 850 has needle down with a heel-tap on the foot control and a knee-lift that raises and lowers the presser foot, both are VERY helpful for this technique.

TECHNIQUE: HEMMING WITH THE SERGER

These are loads of hemming methods—by hand, by sewing machine with a straight stitch, or with a blind hem stitch and a blind hem foot or, you can hem with your serger. Hemming with the serger is quick and easy. It will serge the edge of the fabric and apply the hem at the same time. You will be able to see the hemming stitches just a bit on the front of garment. Here are the steps when serging an invisible hem:

1. Set the serger for a 3-thread wide overlock with a length of 3.5-4.5 and loosen the needle tension slightly.

2. Attach the blind hem foot. On our BERNINA L 850 that is foot #19. Notice that the guide is adjust-able. To catch less garment fabric, adjust the guide closer to the needle. To catch more garment fabric, adjust the guide further away from the needle.

3. Turn the hem to the inside of the garment and press (photo 1).

4. Fold the hem to the right side of the garment, creating a second fold and allowing 1/4” or more of the raw hem edge to extend beyond the second fold (photo 2).

5. Looking at the wrong side of the garment, place the extended fabric to the right, under the guide and the second fold against the guide (photo 3). Serge. The extended edge will get serged (any extra will get cut off by the knife), while the needle catch-es the second fold creating the hem (photo 4).

6. Pull the hem away from the garment (photo 5).

7. Press well (photo 6, shows the hem from the inside and from the outside).

TIP: USING FUSIBLE THREAD IN YOUR SERGER

Fusible thread turns into a glue when heated. It is not a permanent bond but will keep our pinning to a minimum and hold things in place until they can be stitched in place. There are many uses for this thread both by sewing machine and by serger. Three of our favorite serger techniques using this thread are straight hems, curved hems and quilt bindings. In this pajama shirt, we use the straight hem technique. Set up your serger for any overlock stitch with fusible thread in the lower looper and a little longer stitch length (L=3.0). You can see, it will serge the same as regular thread (photo 1).

For Straight Hems – clean finish the hem edge with the right side of the fabric facing up, so that the fusible thread will be on the wrong side (see photo 1). Fold the hem to the wrong side of the garment as suggested on the pattern or a desired amount. Press in place to fuse (photo 2). Now the hem is fused in place and there was no need for pins!

SHIRT CONSTRUCTION

Now, let’s construct the shirt. The shirt was cut out in week 1. Make sure the interfacing is fused to one collar piece and to the 2″ front shirt facing strips. The piping bias strips should be measured following the cutting guide and labeled as to where they go. During the Serge-Along we will be referring back to the IMPORTANT INFO and the TIPS AND TECHNIQUES from WEEKS 1 & 2, so keep those instructions handy.

• If you are just beginning to use your serger, you are welcome to use the sewing machine to baste seams in place before serging the seam. Once you build your confidence, you will omit the basting step and just serge the seam.

• Before seams are serged, match the plaids by pining or gluing within the seam allowance.

• Use glue or Wonder Tape to adhere seams allowances in the correct direction. This will keep the feed teeth from pushing the seam allowances in the opposite direction.

• Use glue or Wonder Tape to match crossing seams so that they match perfectly.

• Read through all directions before starting for a more successful serging experience.

I. Making Piping For The Shirt

Since this shirt has a lot of piping, it is easier to make all of the piping at one time.

1. Set the serger as follows:

4-thread overlock

Stitch length = 3.5

Blade cutting width = 6.0

Foot: Piping

2. Find the piping bias strips for the two front facings. These two pieces of piping will need one end finished. Refer to the Technique: Finishing The End Of Piping and choose the method you like the best. If you are using Method 3 to finish the end of the piping, do that now since the end is finished as you are creating the piping. If you are using Method 1 or 2 to finish the ends, continue to step 3 since the end will be finished during construction.

3. Make the remaining piping pieces and label so that the correct lengths will be attach in the right places. Set piping aside (photo 1).

II. Pocket Construction

1. Set the serger as follows:

4-thread overlock

Stitch length = 3.5

Blade cutting width = 6.0

Foot: Piping

2. Starch and press both the pocket and the bias rectangle for the upper pocket/lining.

3. Center and glue piping to the pocket top. Serge with the piping cord in the groove of the foot (photo 2).

4. Glue the lining to the piping side of the pocket aligning the top edges. The sides and bottom of the lining should extend beyond the pocket. The piping is sandwiched between the pocket and pocket lining.

5. Serge with the cord in the groove of the foot (photo 3).

6. Press the seam allowance toward the lining and glue the seam allowance in place. Measure 3/4″ above the piping on the lining and crease (photo 4).

7. Fold the lining to the wrong side of the pocket along the crease. Press lightly. Trim the lining sides straight to align with the pocket sides. Trim the remainder of the lining to match the pocket (photo 5).

8. Optional: Remove the piping cord from each end of the piping referring to the Technique: Removing Bulk In Piped Seam.

9. Flip the lining to the right side along the creased line, matching all edges. Pin (photo 6).

10. Set the serger as follows:

4-thread overlock

Stitch length = 2.5-3.0

Blade cutting width = 6.0

Foot: Standard

11. Serge the sides and bottom of the pocket leaving an opening in one of the side seams as follows: Serge one side from the top fold to lower edge. Serge one angled edge of the bottom. Serge the other angled edge of the bottom. To leave an opening in the last side, start serging the side at the lower edge, serge 3/4″, *stop with the needles in the fabric (with our BERNINA L 850, heel-tap the foot control), raise the foot (with our BERNINA L 850, use the knee-lift)and angle the pocket to the left, lower the foot (with our BERNINA L 850, use the knee-lift) and serge off. Flip the pocket over to start at the top fold, serge 1/4″ past the piping and repeat from the * to serge off. Now you have an opening in the side seam for turning (photo 7).

12. To have nice corners once the pocket is turned, before turning, glue the seam allowances at the bottom point and the corners to the pocket (photos 8-10).

13. Turn pocket right side out and press the edges of the opening in place and glue (photo 11). When the pocket is later stitched to the shirt front, the opening is stitched closed. Set the pocket aside.

III. Shoulder Seams and Front Facings

1. Set the serger as follows:

4-thread overlock

Stitch length = 2.5-3.0

Blade cutting width = 6.0

Foot: Standard

2. Place the shirt fronts to the back at the shoulders, right sides together. Serge (fig. 1).

3. Press and glue the shoulder seams toward the back. Glue the seam allowance to the shirt back at the arm edge and at the neck edge (fig. 2).

4. Clean finish one long side of each interfaced facing strip (fig. 3). Set aside.

5. Set the serger as follows:

4-thread overlock

Stitch length = 3.5

Blade cutting width = 6.0

Foot: Piping

6. Place piping to the right side of each shirt front edge.If you finished the end of the piping, place the finished end 1/4″ from the cut edge of the neck (fig. 4a). If you did not finish the end of the piping, bend the end of the piping (with or without the cord) into the seam, 1/4″ from the cut edge of the neck (fig. 4b). Glue in place.

7. Serge with the piping in the groove of the foot and cut edges to the right.

8. Place the long cut edge of the facing to the right side of each shirt front on top of the piping, matching the long edges. The piping will be sandwiched between the shirt and the facing. Allow 1/4″ of the facing to extend at the lower edge of the shirt and the remainder of the extra to extend beyond the neck edge. Glue in place along the seam allowance of the piping.

9. Change the stitch length to 2.5-3.0 and the blade cutting width to 6.5.

10. Serge (fig. 5). Tip: Serge looking at the previous seam, with the facing on the bottom.

11. Press the facing to the inside of the shirt and the piping along the edge. With the facing nice and flat against the inside of the shirt, trim the facing to match the cut edge of the neckline (fig. 6) and the hemline. Set aside.

IV. Making the Piped Collar

1. Glue piping around the right side of the outer edge of the interfaced collar piece. Clip the curves of the piping seam allowance, if necessary, as discussed in the Technique: Attaching Piping To A Curve. Finger press the seam allowance to help the glue adhere the piping to the collar (photo 12).

2. Serge the piping to the collar referring to the Technique: Attaching Piping To A Curve.

3. Place glue along the piping seam allowance. Place the other collar piece on top of the piped collar, right sides together and aligning all edges. Serge this piece in place keeping the piping in the groove of the foot along the straight part and along the curves as described in the Technique: Attaching Piping To A Curve (photos 13-15).

4. Turn the collar right side out and press (photo 16).

V. Attaching the Collar

1. Find the bias strip for the neck facing. Fold the strip in half to measure 3/4″ and press. Set aside.

2. Optional: Refer to the Technique: Removing Bulk In Piped Seam to remove the piping cord at each end of the collar.

3. Set the serger as follows:

3-thread narrow overlock (right needle)

Stitch length = 2.5-3.0

Blade cutting width = 6.0

Foot: Standard

4. Make sure the shoulder seam allowances are glued to the back of the shirt at the neck edge.

5. Pins or quit clips are preferred for collar attachment. With the front facings extended, place the collar to the neckline, wrong side of collar to right side of shirt. Match the center of the collar to the center back of the shirt and pin (remember, head of the pin in the air, not against the fabric.) Pin the front piped edges of the collar just beside the center front markings on the shirt. Pin through the shirt only since the facings are extended. Do not cover the marks with the piping (see photo 17). Align and pin the neck and collar edges together between the pins (photo 17).

6. Fold the facings to the right side of the shirt, over the ends of the collar. Un-pin and re-pin or add additional pins (see photo 18).

7. With the bias neck facing folded in half to measure 3/4″ wide, place the cut edges of the folded bias neck facing to the neck edge with all cut edges aligned. The strip should overlap the serged edge of the front facings by 1/2″ (photo 18). Trim away any excess bias facing at the ends. Place pins about 1″ apart and perpendicular to the neck edge (photo 19) or repositioned the pins to align with the seamline with the cut edges to the right. Make sure the heads of the pins are pointing toward you and the points of the pins are pointing toward the serger.

8. Serge the neckline with the right needle 1/4″ from the original cut edge. The serger blade will trim off a scant 1/8″. NOTE: You are taking a 1/4″ seam because your outer needle (the right needle) is 1/4″ from the original cut edge. After serging, the remaining part of the 1/4″ seam is smaller than 1/4″and will allow the seam allowance to flatten against the neck once the bias facing is stitched down. On our BERNINA L 850, to serge a 1/4″ seam when only the right needle is in the serger, align the edge of the fabrics with the inner edge of the “wall” on the foot (photos 20 & 21).

9. Flip the front facings to inside of the shirt and the bias facing to the wrong side of neck to cover the seam. Pin well.

10. Using the sewing machine, topstitch the bias facing in place along the fold, using a straight stitch (L=2.0), starting and stopping 1/2″ into the front facings (photo 22).

VI. Attaching the Sleeves

1. Set the serger as follows:

4-thread overlock

Stitch length = 2.5

Blade cutting width = 6.0

Foot: Standard

2. Check to make sure the shoulder seams are glued to the back at the arm opening.

3. There are two methods of attaching the sleeves to the arm openings. The first method has one step by sewing machine and the final step by serger. The second method is totally by serger. Read through both methods and decide which you are most comfortable with and use that method to attach the sleeves to the shirt.

Method 1 – By sewing machine and serger.

a. Using the sewing machine, run with a straight stitch (L=3.5) at a scant 1/4″ seam between the marks of each sleeve to be used as an easing stitch (fig. 7).

b. With right sides together, place sleeve to the arm openings matching the ends, the front and back markings and the center marking to the shoulder seam. Pull the bobbin thread of the straight stitch to align the sleeve edges and ease the sleeve into the opening. Pin (fig. 8).

c. With the sleeve facing up, serge the sleeve into the arm opening by placing the easing stitch just a tad to the right of the left needle mark on the toe of the foot. Serging in this manner will enclose the easing stitch into the serged seam, meaning it will be hidden and will not have to be removed, saving a step (fig. 9). Repeat for other sleeve.

Method 2 – By serger only.

a. With right sides together, match the sleeves to the arm openings and pin together as follows: ends, front and back markings and at the center mark to the shoulder seam.There will be gaps between the pins of the markings and the center pin (photo 23).

b. Place under the toe of the serger foot with the sleeve down. The sleeve will be against the feed teeth as it is serged in place.

c. Start serging the sleeve to the arm opening and stop at the first mark. Change the differential feed to 1.3. Slide your left hand between the sleeve and the arm opening and continue to serge manipulating the sleeve edge with your fingers to match the edge of the sleeve to the arm opening.Setting the differential feed to a number higher than 1 will ease the sleeve cap into the arm opening as you serge. The higher the number the more easing. As you serge, increase the differential feed (1.5) if you need more easing or lessen the differential feed (1.1 to 1.2) if less easing is needed.When the other mark is reached or once the raw edges are the same length, change the differential feed to 1 and complete the sleeve (photo 24 and 25).

4. Once the sleeve is serged, press the sleeve seam allowance toward the shirt. Glue the seam allowance to the shirt at each end of the seam.

VII. Adding the Sleeve Cuffs

1. Set the serger as follows:

4-thread overlock

Stitch length = 3.5

Blade cutting width = 6.0

Foot: Piping

2. Fold the two cuff rectangles in half to measure 2″ for size 3/4 or 2-1/2″ for sizes 5-8. Starch and press.Glue the two long edges of each cuff together and treat as one layer. Gluing will keep the layers from shifting when the piping is attached.

3. Find the two cuff piping pieces.

4. Glue a piping strip to the long raw edge of each cuff.

5. Serge the piping in place with the piping cord in the groove of the foot (photo 26).

6. Glue the piped edge of the cuffs to the lower edge of each sleeve, right sides together. The piping will be sandwiched between the cuff and the sleeve.

7. Serge the cuff to the sleeve placing the piping cord in the groove of the foot.

8. Press the seam allowance toward the sleeve (photo 27).

9. Trim the ends of the cuff/piping to align with the edges of the sleeve (photos 28 & 29).

VIII. Side Seams and Hem

1. Optional: Refer to the Technique: Removing Bulk In Piped Seam to remove the piping cord at each end of each cuff.

2. Place the sides/sleeves right sides together, matching hem edges, cuff edges (fig. 30) and underarm seams. Wonder Tape or gluing will help to match these seams (figs. 31-33). Serge, leaving a longer serger tail at the end of the sleeve.

3. Press the side seams to the back. Glue the seam allowance to the shirt back at the lower hem edge.

4. With the facings extended away from the shirt, glue the ends of the facing/piping/shirt seam allowance to the shirt. The hem allowance included in the pattern is 1″. You can remove 1″ of the piping cord from the piping if desired.

5. There are several methods that can be used to hem the shirt. Choose your favorite method.

A. Method 1 – Sewing Machine Straight Stitch

a. With the front facings extended, clean finish the facing and hem edge using any overlock stitch (photo 34a). TIP: Thread the lower looper with fusible thread, clean finish the hem edge, right side up for step a. When the hem is pressed in place it will be fused, therefore no pins are needed.

b. Fold the hem to the wrong side 1″ and press (photo 34b).

c. Turn the front facings to the inside, adjusting the lower edge so it cannot be seen from the right side. Glue (photo 34c) or pin.

d. Straight stitch the hem in place along the upper edge of the overlock seam (photo 35).

B. Method 2 – Sewing Machine Blind Hem

a. With the front facings extended, clean finish the facing edge and the shirt hem edge using any overlock stitch.

b. Fold the hem to the wrong side 1″ and press. Check to make sure when the facing is turned to the inside it cannot be seen from the right side along the lower edge. Adjust if needed.

c. Fold the hem to the right side creating a second fold. Allow the serged seam to extend beyond the second fold.

d. Using the blind hem foot on your sewing machine and the blind hem stitch, stitch the hem in place with the straight stitch of the blind hem on the serged seam and the swing stitch catching a few fibers of the second fold. Press the hem away from the shirt.

e. Turn the facings to the inside and glue or pin. Hand stitch the lower edge and side of the facing to the hem.

C. Method 3 – Blind Hem By Serger.

a. Fold the hem to the wrong side 1″ and press. Check to make sure when the facing is turned to the inside it cannot be seen from the right side along the lower edge. Adjust if needed.

b. Refer to the Technique: Hemming With The Serger for complete directions on folding and stitching to hem the shirt (fig. 10).

c. Turn the facings to the inside and glue or pin. Hand stitch the lower edge and side of the facing to the hem (fig. 11).

6. Mark horizontal buttonholes on the left side of the front placket for boys or on the right side of the placket for girls. The first buttonhole should be 1/2″ from the finished neck edge as marked on the pattern with spacing as follows:

Size 3/4      2-1/2″

Size 5/6      2-3/4″

Size 7/8      3″

7. Add buttons to the other side of the placket to align with the buttonholes.

8. Place the pocket on the left side of the shirt with the pocket corner aligned with the markings on the pattern. Pin or glue in place. Straight stitch (L=2.0-2.5) the pocket to the shirt pivoting at the corners. Begin at the top/side with a backstitch, stitch the side, across the bottom and up the other side, ending with a backstitch.

9. Refer to the Technique: What To Do With Serger Tails, step #2 to secure the serger tail at the end of each sleeve.

CUTTING THE GIRLS GOWN

Review the IMPORTANT INFO and SERGING AND SEWING WITH PLAIDS from WEEK 1 before cutting out the girls gown. If you purchased the girls nightgown kit you will make Front Yoke versions 1 or 2.

GIRLS NIGHTGOWN

SIZING – BODY MEASUREMENTS

SUPPLIES

  • Plaid Fabric
  • Contrast Solid Fabric (45″ or 60″) for piping, binding and bands 1/2 yard
  • White Solid (Batiste)
  • 1 yard of bridging
  • 1/2 yard of embroidered insertion (1-1/2″ wide)
  • 2 yards of embroidered edging (1-3/4″ wide)
  • 1 yard of serger piping cord (1/8″ to 3/16″)
  • 1/2 yard of 1/4″ elastic
  • 1 yard of 1/4″ ribbon
  • Buttons
    • Three – 1/2″ to 5/8″
    • Three – 3/8″ to 1/4″
  • Fusible interfacing (2″x 15″) optional
  • General sewing and serging supplies
  • Sewline glue pen and refills
  • 1 or 2 small safety pins for inserting elastic
  • Large blunt-tip needle for finishing serger tails
  • Version 3 front yoke only – 1 spool of red machine embroidery thread
  • 4 spools of serger thread to match fabric
  • Sewing machine thread for topstitching
  • Optional – Fusible thread

CUTTING AND MARKING (see cutting guides for layout)

Refer to cutting guides for placement before cutting.

A. Plaid Fabric

1. Cut 2 skirts to the following measurements:

Size 3-4      L=30″ x W=30″

Size 5-6      L=34″ x W=33″

Size 7-8      L=37″ x W=36″

2. Cut 2 sleeves and mark the front and back of each sleeve, making sure there is a right sleeve and a left sleeve.

3. Cut 2 back yokes (straight grain or bias) and mark the center

4. Place a pin in the top edge of each skirt width to indicate the top and the width since the lengths and widths are very close in measurements.

5. Fold each skirt width in half, matching the top and sides. Place the armhole template along the top/side edges of the skirt fabrics as indicated on the template and cut along the curve line only for the size you are making.

6. Fold one skirt piece in half matching the top, sides and armhole cut outs. Cut down the center fold 5″ from the top edge for the placket opening. The armholes and placket slit should both be on the top edge. This is the skirt back.

7. For version #1 only: cut two yoke sides 8″ x 5″, either straight grain or bias.

B. Contrast Solid Fabric (piping, neck binding, sleeve casing & placket)

1. Cut 2 sleeve casing strips

Size 3-4      1″ x 15″

Size 5-8      1″ x 16″

2. Cut 1 placket strip 2″ x 11″

3. Cut 1 bias neck binding

Size 3-4      1-3/4″ x 18″

Size 5-8      1-3/4″ x 20″

4. Cut 1 bias strips for front yoke piping 1-1/2″ x 14″

5. Cut 2 bias strips for back yokes piping 1-1/2″ x 8″

C. White Solid

1. Choose your front yoke version and cut piece for only one version.

Version 1 Front Yoke – insertion, bridging and ribbon center with plaid sides

• Cut a 1-1/2″ x 8″ strip for yoke

Version 2 Front Yoke – insertion, bridging and ribbon center with white sides

• Cut a 1-1/2″ x 8″ strip for yoke

• Cut 2 pieces 8″ x 5″ front yoke side pieces

Version 3 Front Yoke – serger pintucks (see cutting guides below)

• Cut a 1-1/2″ x 8″ strip for yoke

• Cut 2 pieces 8″ x 9″ for front yoke pintucks

2. Cut 2 pieces 8″ x 14″ for front yoke lining and interlining

3. Cut 2 back yoke linings

CUTTING GUIDES

COMING UP NEXT WEEK

SERGE-ALONG Week 4:

• Creating the heirloom yoke on the nightgown

  • Heirloom sewing techniques

• And more serger tips!

Visit these blog post for more information regarding the features of the BERNINA L 850:

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