Welcome back to our PFAFF® 160th Anniversary Sew-Along! We are thrilled that you are here! We are creating this beautiful Christening gown or child’s dress, designed by Alicia Welcher, assistant editor of Classic Sewing magazine.
In this third lesson, we will be completing all of the pintucks and decorative stitching and finishing up the fancy band. While you may use any machine, our sew-along instructions will feature the fantastic new PFAFF® creative icon™ 2 sewing and embroidery machine. We will be taking advantage of the new features, including projection of embroidery designs, decorative stitches and a grid; scanning of the embroidery hoop; and it’s amazing artificial intelligence capabilities. You also have a chance to win a new PFAFF® creative™ ambition™ 640 sewing and embroidery machine! Visit our sew-along homepage to enter to win and to catch up on Lessons 1 and 2 of our sew-along.
Project Downloads
Note: For best results, please download the files on a computer and NOT a mobile device.
Note: The project patterns and machine embroidery designs are included in Lesson 1.
Notes
1. All step-out photos were taken during the design process. The alignment and size of the blocks may not exactly match yours.
2. Measurements given are for the Christening gown. Dress measurements (where different) are in parentheses.
3. Refer to the Heirloom Sewing Techniques document from Lesson 1 for details on all heirloom sewing techniques.
Single Ribbon Stitches
(Christening Gown Only)
The PFAFF® creative icon™ 2 offers exclusive single, double and triple ribbon stitches. In this gown, we used single ribbon stitches above the fancy band. You could also substitute double or triple ribbon stitches. Just remember that you will need much more ribbon than what is listed in the supplies. If you are using a machine that does not offer these stitches, substitute the ribbon stitches with a small featherstitch or other decorative stitch from your machine.
1. Spray the bottom 6” of the skirt front and the skirt back generously with Terial Magic. Let dry and press well. Do not worry if the fabric has wrinkles unless the wrinkle is a pleat.
2. Using a temporary fabric marker, draw a line parallel to and 2” from the lower raw edges of both the skirt front and back.
3. Select a single ribbon stitch. The stitch used for the sample was 8.1.15. Attach the 2-A foot.
4. Press the projector button above the needle to activate the projector. In the settings on the screen, ensure that the stitch preview, grid and both stitch guides are activated, each in a different color. Have the grid set at 3/8” or 10mm, Stitch Guide 1 set straight in front of the needle and Stitch Guide 2 at a 45-degree angle to the right of the foot (photo 1).
5. Place the marked fabric under the foot with the beginning of the line aligned with the center of the foot. Start stitching approximately 1/2” in from the raw edge.
6. Engage needle down and stitch until the machine stops on its own. I used the start/stop button to make this easy.
7. Place the ribbon under the foot and in front of the needle at a 45-degree angle with the “tail” of the ribbon to the right. Use Stitch Guide 2 to align the ribbon at the 45-degree angle. Let approximately 2” of ribbon extend to the left behind the foot (photo 2).
8. Stitch until the machine stops on its own. Flip the ribbon over and pull to the left so that the “tail” of the ribbon is at a 45-degree angle to the left (photo 3). You can change Stitch Guide 1 to a 45-degree angle to the left to help with ribbon placement if needed. Take care to not pull the ribbon so much that it distorts. Just pull enough to have the ribbon lie flat on the fabric.
9. Continue to stitch and flip the ribbon. Use the grid to ensure that you are stitching straight along your drawn line. See the video for details.
10. After stitching is complete, press the lower hem well face down into a padded surface (photo 4).
11. Trim excess fabric away 1” from the lower edge of the decorative stitching.
12. Soak the skirts to remove Terial Magic. Let dry and press well with the ribbon stitches face down on a padded surface. Set skirts aside.
Pintucks
All pintucks were stitched using the 9mm Pintuck foot with Decorative Stitch Guide. A 5-groove pintuck foot could also be used to achieve a similar look with some additional steps and careful sewing. Alternate directions for using a 5-groove pintuck foot are included within these instructions.
Pintucks – Lower Front Bodice
Note: 35 pintucks were stitched on the Christening gown bodice to achieve 160 total pintucks for the PFAFF® 160th Anniversary. When making the child’s dress, you can stop with 35 pintucks or you can continue to add pintucks to fill the lower bodice. The dress will not have 160 pintucks as several are eliminated to make the skirt a narrower width.
1. In the Settings menu under Sewing: Stitch Limiting Options, select a 2.0 size twin needle and touch OK. This will turn off the automatic needle threader, which cannot be used with a twin needle, and will limit the width of stitches that can be selected.
2. Select a center straight stitch. Insert the 2.0/80 twin needle and thread the machine with two spools of 60wt. thread. Attach the 9mm Pintuck foot with Decorative Stitch Guide with the extension of the foot to the left (see photo 5).
3. Using a temporary fabric marker, draw a line down the vertical center of the Front Bodice Pintuck Block.
4. Align the drawn line with the center of the foot (see photo 5) and stitch the first pintuck.
5. Move the first pintuck to the next groove in the foot to the left (see photo 6) and stitch another pintuck. Continue moving and stitching until you have 18 total pintucks. If using a 5-groove pintuck foot, place each previous pintuck in the left-hand outside groove of the foot.
6. Remove the pintuck foot, turn it 180 degrees so that the extension is on the right and replace the foot. Move the first pintuck to the groove on the right (the first and second pintucks should both fall into grooves on the foot) and stitch another pintuck. Continue moving and stitching 16 more pintucks for a total of 35 pintucks (see photo 15). If using a 5-groove pintuck foot, place each previous pintuck in the right-hand outside groove of the foot.
7. Press the pintucked block face down on a padded surface. Starch lightly and press again, still face down on a padded surface. Set pintucked block aside.
Pintucks – Sleeve Blocks and Fancy Band Panels
METHOD 1: Using the 9mm Pintuck Foot with Decorative Stitch Guide
1. Using a temporary fabric marker, draw a line down the vertical center of each Sleeve Block and each Pintuck Panel.
2. Remove the pintuck foot, turn it 180 degrees so that the extension is on the left and replace the foot. The machine should still be threaded with two spools of 60wt. thread and the 2.0/80 twin needle should still be inserted. A 2.0 twin needle should still be selected in the Sewing Settings.
3. Starting with the short pintuck panel (gown only), pintuck the panel in-the-round as follows. The short pintuck panel is for practice and will not be used in the gown. For the dress, cut a practice piece from the scraps, ensuring that you will be stitching the pintucks on the cross grain.
a. Align the drawn line with the center of the foot (photo 5) and stitch the first pintuck. When you are approaching the end of the panel, wrap the beginning of the panel under the free arm of the machine and butt the beginning and end together, both right sides up. Take care to not twist the panel. Align the first pintuck with the next groove in the foot to the left of center (photo 6) and continue to stitch. When you come back around to the join, the pintucks will automatically move into the next grooves (photo 7). Stitch one more pintuck for a total of 3 pintucks.
b. Cut the pintucked fabric apart at the join and press well face down on a padded surface (see photo 8).
c. Remove the pintuck foot, turn it 180 degrees so that the extension is on the right and replace the foot. Place the first pintuck into the far groove on the extension of the foot (photo 8). Stitch a pintuck. There should be about 11mm of space between the two pintucks. When you come to the join, move the last pintuck into the next groove to the right (photo 9) and stitch two more pintucks. You should now have 3 pintucks, an 11mm space and 3 more pintucks.
4. Cut the pintucked fabric apart at the join once again.
5. Press the pintucked panel face down on a padded surface. Starch lightly and press again, still face down on a padded surface (see photo 10).
6. Insert a size 80 microtex needle and thread the needle with 40wt. white embroidery thread. In the Settings menu under Sewing: Stitch Limiting Options, turn off the twin needle.
7. Place lightweight tear-away stabilizer or 1” strips of sticky fibrous water-soluble stabilizer behind the 11mm space between the center pintucks (photo 10).
8. Place the pintucks on either side of the 11mm space into the two grooves closest to the center of the foot. This will place the center of the opening on the foot into the center of the space (photo 11).
9. Press the projector button above the needle to activate the projector. In the settings on the screen, ensure that the stitch preview is activated and the grid and both stitch guides are turned off.
10. Audition decorative stitches by selecting them from the different decorative stitch menus on the screen and previewing them with the projector (photo 12). Stitch 5.3.26, shown in photo 12, was used for the sample gown.
11. Once you have selected a stitch or two that you think you might like, stitch down the center of the pintucks for a couple of inches with each stitch, keeping the pintucks in the grooves. Select the stitch you want to use or audition and stitch additional stitches.
12. Remove the stabilizer (carefully tear away if using lightweight tear-away stabilizer or rinse in water if using water-soluble stabilizer). Let dry, then starch and press the panel face down on a padded surface.
13. Once you have selected a stitch, repeat steps 2 through 12 for each sleeve block and the remaining pintuck panels (photo 13).
Pintucks – Sleeve Blocks and Fancy Band Panels
METHOD 2: Using a 5-Groove Pintuck Foot
1. Using a temporary fabric marker, draw a line down the vertical center of each Sleeve Block and each Pintuck Panel. Place lightweight tear-away stabilizer or 1” strips of sticky fibrous water-soluble stabilizer behind the drawn line.
2. Insert a size 80 microtex needle and thread the needle with 40wt. white embroidery thread. Attach the 2-A foot.
3. Press the projector button above the needle to activate the projector. In the settings on the screen, ensure that the stitch preview is activated and the grid and both stitch guides are turned off.
4. Audition decorative stitches by selecting them from the different decorative stitch menus on the screen and previewing them with the projector (see photo 12). Stitch 5.3.26, shown in photo 12, was used for the sample gown.
5. Select a decorative stitch or two that you think you might like. Starting with the short pintuck panel (gown only), stitch your chosen decorative stitch(es) for a couple of inches, aligning the drawn line with the center of the foot. The short pintuck panel is for practice and will not be used in the gown. For the dress, cut a practice piece from the scraps, ensuring that you will be stitching the pintucks on the cross grain.
6. Once you have selected a decorative stitch that you like, stitch your chosen decorative stitch down the center of the two sleeve blocks and the two remaining pintuck panels.
7. Remove the stabilizer (carefully tear away if using lightweight tear-away stabilizer or rinse in water if using water-soluble stabilizer). Let dry, then press the blocks and panels face down on a padded surface. Do not starch.
8. Using a temporary fabric marker, draw a line parallel to and 1/4” to the right of the drawn center line that is under the decorative stitches. Draw another line parallel to and 1/4” to the left of the drawn center line that is under the decorative stitches (photo 14).
9. In the Settings menu under Sewing: Stitch Limiting Options, select a 2.0 size twin needle and touch OK. This will turn off the automatic needle threader, which cannot be used with a twin needle, and will limit the width of stitches that can be selected.
10. Insert the 2.0/80 twin needle and thread the machine with two spools of 60wt. thread. Attach the 5-groove pintuck foot and select a center straight stitch.
11. Pintuck the panel in-the-round as follows:
a. Align the right-hand drawn line with the center of the foot and stitch the first pintuck. When you are approaching the end of the panel, wrap the beginning of the panel under the free arm of the machine and butt the beginning and end together, both right sides up. Take care to not twist the panel. Align the first pintuck with the outside groove in the foot to the left of center and continue to stitch. When you come back around to the join, the pintucks will automatically move into the outside groove. Stitch one more pintuck for a total of 3 pintucks.
b. Cut the pintucked fabric apart at the join.
c. Align the left-hand drawn line with the center of the foot and stitch the first pintuck. When you are approaching the end of the panel, wrap the beginning of the panel under the free arm of the machine and butt the beginning and end together, both right sides up. Take care to not twist the panel. Align the first pintuck with the outside groove in the foot to the right of center and continue to stitch. When you come back around to the join, the pintucks will automatically move into the outside groove. Stitch one more pintuck for a total of 3 pintucks.
12. Cut the pintucked fabric apart at the join once again.
13. Press the pintucked panel face down on a padded surface. Starch lightly and press again, still face down on a padded surface.
14. Repeat steps 11 through 13 for each sleeve block and the remaining pintuck panels.
Pintucks – Ruffle
1. Sew the short ends of the 3-1/2 ruffle strips together to create one long strip. This can be done using a straight stitch on a sewing machine and zigzagging to finish, using a rolled hem on a serger or using a French seam.
2. Using a temporary fabric marker, draw a line 1-1/4” away from and parallel to the lower raw edge.
3. The machine should still be threaded with two spools of 60wt. thread and the 2.0/80 twin needle should still be inserted. A 2.0 twin needle should still be selected in the Sewing Settings. The 9mm pintuck foot with decorative stitch guide should be attached with the extension on the left.
4. With the lower raw edge of the ruffle to the left, align the drawn line with the center of the foot (see photo 5) and stitch the first pintuck. When you are approaching the end of the ruffle, wrap the beginning of the ruffle under the free arm of the machine and butt the beginning and end together, both right sides up. Take care to not twist the ruffle. Align the first pintuck with the next groove in the foot to the left of center (see photo 6) and continue to stitch. When you come back around to the join, the pintucks will automatically move into the next grooves (see photo 7). Stitch one more pintuck for a total of 3 pintucks. If using a 5-groove pintuck foot, align the first pintuck with the outside groove of the foot to the left of center.
5. Press the pintucked ruffle face down on a padded surface. Starch lightly and press again, still face down on a padded surface.
6. Set ruffle aside.
Finishing the Front Bodice
1. Locate the Upper Front Bodice and the Lower Front Bodice pintucked piece.
2. Find and mark the center front at the lower edge of the lace on the Upper Front Bodice.
3. Lay the Upper Front Bodice on top of the Lower Front Bodice, overlapping the two to the uppermost edge of the lace shape and aligning the center mark on the lace with the center pintuck. Pin the two layers together through the lace (photo 15).
4. Lay the full bodice pattern on the Upper/Lower Front Bodice, aligning the top of the pattern with the traced lines on the Upper Front Bodice. Make sure that there is enough room on the pintucked Lower Front Bodice to fit the pattern (photo 16). If there is not, adjust the pintucked piece down until there is and repin.
5. Sew the Lower Front Bodice to the Upper Front Bodice using the technique Extra Stable Lace Finish as follows:
a. Zigzag the lower header of the lace only.
b. Trim the seam allowance to 3/8”-1/2” from the zigzag stitches (photo 17). Clip the curves to the zigzag stitches and press the seam allowance away from the lace.
c. Zigzag over the lower header of the lace again.
d. Trim the excess seam allowance close to the zigzag stitches.
6. Change the needle to a 100-110 universal needle and select a pinstitch.
7. With lightweight tear-away stabilizer underneath, pinstitch both the upper and lower headers of the lace. The straight part of the stitch should fall on the fabric right next to the lace and the swing stitches should fall over the header of the lace.
8. Remove the excess stabilizer.
9. Lay the full bodice pattern on the created piece, aligning the top of the pattern with the traced lines on the Upper Front Bodice. Trace the bodice pattern.
10. Straight stitch across the lace just inside the drawn lines on both ends to keep the lace from stretching. Cut out the bodice (photo 18) and set aside.
Finishing the Fancy Band
1. Keeping the decorative stitch centered, trim the pintuck panels to 4” wide. Cut the trimmed panels into 4” squares. You will need 18 for the gown (15 for dress).
2. Locate the embroidered 4” blocks made in Lesson 2.
3. Lay four of the squares out left to right as follows:
Pintucked square with pintucks horizontal (A)
Pintucked square with pintucks vertical (B)
Pintucked square with pintucks horizontal (C)
Embroidered square with rose oriented upright (D)
4. Stack the remaining squares on top of this row in the same manner until you have six squares in each pile (5 for dress).
5. From the 5/8” lace insertion, cut four 25” pieces (21” for dress). Mark the right side of all pieces with a red sticky dot.
6. Chain stitch a piece of lace to the right-hand side of each square using the technique Extra Stable Lace Finish as follows:
a. Lay one piece of lace right side up on top of an A square, aligning the outer header of the lace with the right-hand raw edge of the square and the short cut end of the lace with the top of the square. Zigzag over the inside header of the lace only.
b. Just before reaching the bottom of square A, butt the top of another square A to the bottom of the first one. Align the lace as before and continue stitching over the inside header of the lace.
7. Repeat step 6b until you run out of square A.
8. Press the seam allowance of each piece toward square A. From the front, zigzag over each lace header again. Trim the excess fabric seam allowance from the wrong side, close to the zigzag stitching. Set aside. Do not cut the squares apart yet.
9. Repeat steps 5 through 8 to attach lace to the right-hand side of each square B.
10. Repeat steps 5 through 8 to attach lace to the right-hand side of each square C.
11. Repeat steps 5 through 8 to attach lace to the right-hand side of each square D.
12. Change the needle to a 100-110 universal needle and select a pinstitch.
13. Stitch over the inside lace header of each set of squares. The straight part of the stitch should fall on the fabric right next to the lace header and the fingers of the stitch should cover the lace header.
14. Carefully cut the squares apart by cutting through the lace (photo 19).
15. Change the needle back to the 80 microtex needle.
16. Place the left-hand side of one square B to the right-hand side of one square A. Align the lace/fabric seam of square A to the left-hand raw edge of square B. Zigzag over the inside header to attach the remaining side of the lace to square B.
17. Repeat step 16 to attach the remaining squares B to the remaining squares A. This can also be sewn in a continual manner by butting one set up against the previous set.
18. Repeat steps 16 and 17 to attach the left-hand sides of squares C to the right-hand sides of squares B.
19. Repeat steps 16 and 17 to attach the left-hand sides of squares D to the right-hand sides of squares C.
20. Change the needle to a 100-110 universal needle and select a pinstitch.
21. Stitch over the remaining lace headers of each row of squares. The straight part of the stitch should fall on the fabric right next to the lace header and the fingers of the stitch should cover the lace header.
22. Carefully cut the rows apart (photo 20).
23. Change the needle back to the 80 microtex needle.
24. Using the technique Extra Stable Lace Finish, stitch the rows together to create one long row by placing the left-hand side of squares A to the right-hand side of squares D. Change the needle to a 100-110 universal needle and pinstitch all A/D seams. Change the needle back to the 80 microtex needle.
25. Press the pintucked row face down on a padded surface. Starch lightly and press again, still face down on a padded surface.
26. Locate the two lace fancy bands created in Lesson 2. Find and mark the center of the lace side of each fancy band.
27. Using the technique Extra Stable Lace Finish, center and sew the lace side of one fancy band to the top of the pintucked row and the lace side of the other fancy band to the bottom of the pintucked row. To start, align the top/bottom raw edges of the pintucked row with the inside header of the first piece of lace and zigzag the outer header to the pintucked row.
28. Change the needle to a 100-110 universal needle and pinstitch the outer header of the lace.
29. On each short end, trim the fancy band even with the pintucked row. Take care to not cut the lace header at the end of the pintucked row.
30. Using a ribbon bodkin, run the ribbon through the beading (see photo 21).
31. Stitch the fancy band into a cylinder using the technique Extra Stable Lace Finish as follows:
a. Align the left-hand edge of the first square A with the lace/fabric seam of the last square D. Continue the overlap into the lace fancy band above and below squares A/D (photo 21).
b. Zigzag the outer header of the lace and extend the stitching through the lace fancy bands above and below the pintucked row.
c. Fold the seam allowance (fancy band and square) to the wrong side at the seam.
d. Zigzag the outer header of the lace again and extend the stitching through the lace fancy bands above and below the pintucked row.
e. Trim the excess seam allowance from the square and the fancy bands.
32. Change the needle to a 100-110 universal needle and pinstitch the header of the lace on the pintucked square only. Do not extend the pinstitching through the lace fancy bands (photo 22).
33. Set completed fancy band aside.
That’s all for Lesson 3! Join us next week for Lesson 4, where we will complete the construction of our gown/dress.
More About the PFAFF® creative icon™ 2:
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